Travel, Deeply Considered

Dubai Beyond the Obvious — What Most Itineraries Miss

Dubai’s reputation precedes it — skyscrapers, shopping malls, artificial islands. Most itineraries never get beyond the Burj Khalifa observation deck and a dinner at Nobu. That is Dubai the brand. The city beneath it is considerably more interesting. After dozens of trips arranging Dubai holidays for clients who want more than the obvious, here is what I actually recommend — and what most itineraries miss entirely. Al Fahidi — Old Dubai Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood is the original Dubai — narrow lanes, wind-tower architecture, art galleries in converted courtyard houses. It is a 10-minute taxi from the Marina and a different century. The XVA Gallery, set in a restored heritage house, is one of the finest small contemporary art spaces in the Middle East. The Arabian Tea House serves breakfast in a courtyard that feels like it belongs in Marrakech. Most visitors do not know this neighbourhood exists. It is not hidden — it is in the guidebooks — but it is routinely skipped in favour of the malls. That is a mistake. An hour or two in Al Fahidi gives Dubai a texture and history that the skyline alone cannot provide. The Desert — Not the Way Most People Do It The standard Dubai desert experience is a dune-bashing 4x4 trip with a buffet dinner and a belly dance show. It is fine for what it is. It is not what I recommend. The alternative: a private dawn drive into the Al Marmoom Desert Conservation Reserve, followed by breakfast at a camp that has no other guests. Bab Al Shams Desert Resort offers this. So does Al Maha, A Luxury Collection Desert Resort — a property set within its own private conservation reserve, where Arabian oryx roam freely and the silence is absolute. A night at Al Maha followed by a morning wildlife drive is more evocative of old Arabia than anything the city offers. “People come to Dubai for the skyline and leave talking about the desert. The desert is where Dubai stops performing and starts being real.” — Max, Asia & Middle East Specialist The Food Scene — Beyond the Hotel Restaurants Dubai’s dining scene has matured significantly in the last five years. The hotel restaurants (Nobu, Zuma, CUT by Wolfgang Puck) are reliably excellent. What most visitors miss is the independent scene. Orfali Bros in Wasl 51 is a Michelin-starred bistro that would hold its own in any European capital — Middle Eastern flavours, Nordic precision, no pretension. 3Fils in Jumeirah Fishing Harbour serves some of the best Japanese-Peruvian food in the region from a tiny counter with a harbour view. Brix in Jumeirah Al Naseem is a cheese-and-wine restaurant run by a genuine fromager, and it is extraordinary. For something completely different: spend a morning at the Deira fish market, then have your purchase cooked at one of the small restaurants adjacent. It costs almost nothing, the fish is hours old, and the experience is as far from a hotel buffet as Dubai gets. The Art District — Alserkal Avenue Alserkal Avenue in Al Quoz is Dubai’s art district — a cluster of warehouses converted into galleries, studios, a cinema, a chocolate factory and some of the city’s best independent coffee. The Third Line gallery represents contemporary Middle Eastern artists at a serious level. Cinema Akil screens independent and art-house films. The whole area feels like it has been transplanted from East London, except the coffee is better and the weather is warmer. Visit on a weekday morning. It is quiet, browsable, and entirely free. It is also air-conditioned, which in Dubai is a meaningful amenity. The Creek and the Abra Dubai Creek is the original trading waterway that made the city. An abra crossing (a traditional wooden boat) costs 1 dirham (approximately 22p) and takes you from the spice souk on the Deira side to the textile souk on the Bur Dubai side. The crossing takes three minutes. It is the single most atmospheric three minutes available in Dubai. Combine the abra crossing with a walk through the Spice Souk (the real one, not the tourist reconstruction) and the Gold Souk. The Gold Souk is garish, overwhelming and entirely genuine — this is where Dubai’s trading history lives. Hatta — The Mountain Escape Hatta is a mountain town approximately 130 kilometres from central Dubai, in the Hajar Mountains near the Oman border. It is cool, quiet, and strikingly beautiful — rocky peaks, a turquoise dam lake, and a restored heritage village. JA Hatta Fort Hotel is the only luxury property in the area, and it offers kayaking, mountain biking, hiking and stargazing in a landscape that looks nothing like the Dubai most visitors imagine. A night in Hatta combined with two or three nights on the Palm or at the Marina is the ideal Dubai itinerary for a traveller who wants contrast. The drive from the city takes 90 minutes and crosses from glass-tower modernity into genuine Arabian mountain landscape. When to Go — and the Hotels Worth Knowing When: November to March is the ideal window. Temperatures are 22–28°C, the humidity is low, and the outdoor experiences (desert, Hatta, Al Fahidi) are all comfortable. Avoid June to September unless you plan to stay indoors — temperatures exceed 45°C. Hotels: The Armani Hotel (inside the Burj Khalifa) for quiet luxury. One&Only Royal Mirage for the most beautiful beach property in Dubai. Al Maha for the desert. Jumeirah Al Naseem for families who want the best waterpark and beach combination. Atlantis The Royal for travellers who want spectacle. Dubai rewards the traveller who looks beyond the obvious. A conversation with one of our Middle East specialists will build the itinerary that shows you both sides of the city.